-- by Rick Lowery

You bet! Becoming comfortable with your own gear is essential when it comes to dive equipment. With comfort and familiarity comes confidence and less chances to panic. Most larger dive shops will allow you to try before you buy, so you can be assured of the fit and functionality. Ask your dive shop if they have a trial pool.

I also recommend that you read up on your equipment first. Rodales is an excellent source of unbiased information regarding dive gear.

What should I buy?

This is a question that is limited only by your budget. When you leap into a hobby like Scuba, you can often be intimidated by the cost of the gear in question. Some folks can spend upwards of $7000 on a complete scuba outfit. This is an extreme, and doesn't apply to most tropical divers.

The Basics

When beginning in diving, your basic snorkel package is most often essential and required by instructors. This includes the mask, fins, and snorkel, sometimes also requiring booties and weights / weight belts. Depending on what you find comfortable and what is required, this package can cost you around $200 - $400.

The Mask

Find a mask that FITS and doesn't leak. The larger the mask, the more it is apt to leak or get bumped from your face. Those of us who choose to keep facial hair have and extra consideration when choosing a mask as the moustache can cause the mask to leak at the nose. A thinner nose seal and or a 1/8 inch shave line above the moustache can solve this problem.

The Wetsuit

Wetsuits are another consideration that we recommend you purchase. Suit rental is becoming more difficult due to fit and liability. Although we here at ScubaFins cannot actually find evidence of the occurrance, rumors float about that renters have actually caught a venerial disease from a rented wetsuit. I find this somewhat difficult to beleive, but I could be wrong.

The need for the wetsuit is obvious. Pools and seawater can get cold depending on the time of year. If you are diving or certifying in the winter, you are probably going to buy yourself a wetsuit after your first pool session or dive. When you start to shiver, you should end your dive.

For tropical diving, the "shortie" is a popular choice. Find a nice 3mm neoprene shortie with long sleeves that fits snug but doesn't inhibit motion drastically or cut off circulation. These sometimes come in a set with the "farmer john" long pants / sleeveless undersuit. Together, these can run from $200 on up to $700. The shorties by themselves are usually less than $200.

The BC Vest

BC? ( Bouyancy Compenstator vest ) Now we're getting into some of the more expensive gear. BC vests can be rented at almost every dive shop. Most are well maintained and are found in a variety of makers and sizes. Purchasing of a BC for the casual diver may not be a great idea due to its cost. Most BC's range from $300 on up to $800. Variation in price is usually due to manufacturer, lift, weight integration and features. Durability is also a prime factor in cost. Also consider that the BC is one of those pieces of gear that require annual inspection / servicing, which can add to the cost.

Fit is the #1 feature you should look for in a BC. How easy is it to take on & off? Can it be adjusted? Does it squeeze you when it's inflated? When it is inflated, does it roll you over, or force you face down?

If you are like most divers and have difficulty seeing your BC vest or gear that is attached to your BC, having your own BC can come in handy. You gain familiarity with your own BC, and after time, you don't ever have to look for your gear & BC controls. You've got them committed to memory.

The Regulator

Regulators can be the most expensive piece of diving equipment you can buy. They are also the most critical. It's your air supply. Regulators, like BC's can be rented from almost every dive shop. Additionally. all regulators require annual servicing / inspection. Typical regulators range from $250 - $2000. A hefty range of cost! For the recreational diver, a good regulator can run from $250 - $500. Many of these in this cost range are highly rated and very reliable.

Why should I buy a regulator? Well, good question. Do you mind chomping on a mouthpiece that has seen many other mouths? Does the mouthpiece fit your mouth? Does your jaw hurt after a 30 minute dive? How old is the regulator your about to dive with? Does the second stage (Air regulator piece that is attached to the mouthpiece) have an adjustor? If not, do you find yourself having to suck harder to get air flowing from the regulator? These questions are only a guideline. If you find yourself apprehensive about rented regulators, maybe a purchase is in your future.

There are some "hidden" costs with a regulator. Usually the listed prices DO NOT include the depth & pressure gauge (you MUST have a pressure gauge on your regulator that YOU can see while submerged) or the backup second stage. Most dive boats / dive masters will not allow you to dive without a backup second stage. Expect the cost of your regulator set to increase by and additional $200 - $500 depending on the choices you make for the gauges and backup second stage.

Tanks

You can rent tanks at nearly every dive shop as well. Things to consider with regard to tanks. You cannot fly with a tank. It is illegal to transport a pressurized tank in a commercial aircraft. Tanks are heavy. Even more so when they are filled with air. Tanks should ALWAYS be handled with great care.

If you live near your favorite dive site and you don't mind hauling the weight, tanks might be a good option for you.

But wait!

If you are certifying and are looking into your own gear, clear it with your instructor first. We're pretty certain that your instructor won't have a problem with buying your own gear, but make sure the KIND of gear is ok for your certification.

Examples are BC integrated second stages. Most certification instructors will require you to have 2 second stages that are free and easy to access, where an integrated second stage requires that you give your buddy your air supply and switch yourself to the BC integrated second stage. Intructors usually won't allow this due to confusion it might bring to the classroom and the open water certification. Lets face it. If your buddy is expecting a brightly colored second stage hanging from your octo, you don't want to confuse him when he needs air!